Jean's Webpage for Costume History Class

Assignment: Study Garment - Swagger Coat

(Cite as: Cooper, Jean L. "Assignment: Study Garment - Swagger Coat (4/29/2001)." http://www.people.virginia.edu/~jlc5f/Costumes/Assign9.htm & linked pages.)

2.2 Coat (1), 1950-1955, American, no label (hand made), mauve wool gabardine(?), lined in mauve-rose crepe.

This coat is a three-quarter length ladies' coat, cut with a loose flare from the shoulders. The collar has front lapels, with a built-up neckline in back. It does not button in the front, but hangs straight. Under the front lapels are three fabric inserts giving the front a tailored look. The sleeves are cut on the bias, and are slightly flared, with cuffs. There are vertical welted pockets on both front panels. The sleeves are cut in the same piece as the front panels, but the back of the sleeves is separate. There are diamond shaped gussets under each arm where the sleeve meets the side seam. The back is plain with a center seam. The outer fabric is a greyish mauve that looks and feels like a wool gabardine or flannel and has a line of fur-like fuzz at intervals of one-inch which has been incorporated into the overall design of the coat. It is lined with a crepe fabric in a mauve-rose color. I checked the interfacing, and it looks like horsehair-style interfacing. There are no shoulder pads, which makes the early 1950s a good guess for dating.

This piece is in good condition, with the seams tight and secure. It has two pinholes where the fabric has deteriorated, and a half-inch cut in the back hem, visible on the outside of the garment. It could probably use a good cleaning.

The seamstress who made this coat used the fabric design to accent the tailoring of the coat. The lines are matched perfectly at every seam - it's really a job of superior craftsmanship!

I picked this item up at an antique store specifically for this project. It reminded me of a design I'd seen in the Vintage Vogue reproduction patterns. The elaborate pieced construction and attention to design seems reminiscent of clothing from that era.

Coat front Coat back

Details:

Front lapel inserts Front welted pockets Sleeve with cuff

Back sleeve seam

Line drawing:

Continue with historical views of this style on the next page.

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Updated on February 3, 2004
by Jean L. Cooper
Copyright 2001 Jean L. Cooper